November 2013
Buzkashi – indeterminate number of men on horseback wrestling over a decapitated goat
Winner – rider who deposits carcass between two posts
Triggers - mayhem
Spent an hour last night looking for my new home. The “first dark hole on your right” had been my only instruction coming through the payphone. English guy. Posh accent. Faded with age.
There are Lada's everywhere. Everyone thinks I'm Russian. “Hey pretty, can you get me one?”. I was slowly followed by blacked out windows as I tried to find the apartment. Each of the apartments opened into a doppelganger soviet stairwell. In, out. In, out. Blue, red. Blue, red. All steel doors, all four foot wide. Nothing to differentiate one from another.
I need a screwdriver for the tap and a cocktail stick to make the kettle work. If you forget to turn the kettle off then it shoots the cocktail stick at whoever is doing the washing up. “The sheets have only been on for a week or so...”
Dushanbe, Tajikistan. An unsettled night in my new manager’s bedroom. Cravat, crumpled white shirt. The red capillaries merging within the skin of his nose. He had taken the sofa. I had caught him with a vodka and coke in one hand and a packet of babywipes in the other, frantically cleaning the grime on the bathroom mirror.
This is not exactly what I’d planned. Whilst I was in the monastery I had dreamed of the Pamir Mountains. Landlocked. China, Afghanistan and Pakistan looming in my night mind. I dreamt of halls of people. Singing.
‘Will there be singing in the bad times? Yes there will be singing. About the bad times’.
I wake to the sound of leaves being brushed into piles, then put into bags by hand.
Am glad I brought my mug with me. Something familiar. Resting on the windowsill. Third floor of an apartment block, I sit with my knees tucked under my chin watching the morning sun.
Up in the trees, perched like a bird. Carefully observing the courtyard below. Safe in the canopy. Scanning for predators.
By the time I left the building she was crouched putting the last of the leaves into her fifth black bin bag. She grinned me a grill of golden pegs. She had wrinkles I was envious of. Laughter ones. This woman became my anchor in the mornings. Beaming me warmth each day before I set out. And a nod. Words were never exchanged. But she understood my need for daily reassurance.
I slip my mask on before leaving to walk through the streets and markets to work. My head and hair covered. Three days after that initial night, I was greeted by a very serious looking Tajik woman on the street, outside the school where I was teaching. I had to report to the embassy. There was a problem with my visa.
…………………
Grief has led me to some faraway places. With nothing to tie me to ‘home’ I was left following my senses. My sweaty night time visions. The stretching in my heart.
Where now is a soulmate like you?
Having seen your flower-like face in the garden
I will hold your love as long as I live
Wherever I find myself, I want to be with you
Folk song, Tashkent